Brittany Britto Garley is an award-winning journalist and the editor of Eater Houston. She writes and oversees coverage of food and dining in the most diverse city in the country.
One of Texas's largest Japanese whisky bars is now open in Houston's Autry Park. Tucked into an alleyway in Autry Park with only 16 seats, Bar Doko gives off a speakeasy vibe, allowing bargoers to escape into a world of Japanese whiskies with fanciful presentations.
Chefs Daniel Lee and Patrick Pham, the team behind local sushi restaurants Handies Douzo, Kokoro, Himari, and Aiko, opened the bar officially on Friday, December 13. Bar Doko draws inspiration from "omotenashi," the Japanese approach to hospitality, and traditions rooted in Ginza, Tokyo, which, according to the menu, has been credited as the birthplace of Japanese bartending.
The cocktails channel Japan's six seasons and the "circle of life," first with a lineup of signature highballs made with Iichiko or Toki whisky. The Natsu, or summer, cocktail consists of bright flavors like lemon verbena and black lemon bitters, while the Fuyu, or winter, cocktail combines honey water, ginger bitters, and soda. Bargoers can also indulge in their pick of Bar Doko's four signature martinis, with a choice of dry or umami-forward vermouth. The El, or eternity, incorporates A5 wagyu and caramelized mushrooms with a raw mushroom garnish meant to soak up some of the whiskey, while the Sora, or sky, cocktail, made with sesame-infused magenta, incorporates Maven cold brew and a cloud of vanilla miso foam. Though the drinks are heavy on umami, diners can dabble in sweeter sips. Bar Doko serves a boozy kakigori with shaved ice hand-cranked into a glass behind the bar and doused with rum, condensed milk, and a topping of strawberry anko, and its IMO Negroni, poured into a Masu box, comes with a mini toast slathered in jelly as a garnish.
The new bar will complement the anticipated restaurant Doko. Just steps away from Bar Doko, the 50-person restaurant will serve some of the greatest hits from Duckstache Hospitality restaurants, including maguro crudo and a special selection of nigiri made with fish flown in from Toyosu Market in Japan. It will also offer a lineup of sake-based cocktails.